E-Ray Specific NCM Bash Questions

[JB]

4) Is the 0-60 / 1/4 mile times on the reg AS tires or on the summer tires? It looks like they mention the amount of G's and then bring up * with summer tires. I want to know the stats with summer and CF rims also.

5) Will there be issues if people put simple mods like intake, exhaust, hf cats, headers without touching the ECU?

😁

The acceleration with either tire is identical according to what I heard. (2.5 to 60 mph and 10.5 to run the quarter

it is the maximum cornering lateral G ‘s that shifts from the all season radials to “over 1 lateral G to 1.2 lateral g s with the “summer mp4 s tires.

the z06 was stated as pulling 1.16 lateral G s with the ultra focused high performance cup 2 s.

I hope this gives good insight to tire discussion for the Eray.

as far as mods for what my opinion is worth. The air filter mod if you feel you want it that should be fine. Same for the rear section of the exhaust.

headers and high flow cars would or should in my opinion be avoided. The excess heat could over time could cause heat degradation to wiring or hoses and again fwiw this car is quick enough.

better to spend that money on gasoline or drivers schools. This is way more capable a sports car than many of us could utilize effectively.

high flow cars and headers would something that could over time affect other subsystem durability due to the unplanned effects of excess heat from those mods.

sounds nuts to us old school hot rodders yet packaged out back with different thermal characteristics than corvette engineers my suggestion again would be it’s better left as designed by the factory.

I'm Overly cautious for good reason. My answers to the headers and high flow cars though are only my opinion based off of what’s been stated about the stingray. With such insane acceleration capabilities my days of modding the car in those traditional ways are over. The performance is so staggering compared to previous generations I believe we have the option to just pony up the performance model we want and enjoy the warranty in full effect for these new (z06) ice or in this Eray (hybrid)

[Ragtop 99]

That is very very very disappointing, and a huge let down truthfully. I think Corvette totally missed the boat on that one. Yes I understand that the battery is for performance, and not economy, but take what you can get thats already there.. Geeze. I can guarantee you if I am in a city/around town situation, and I know for the next mile or two, there is going to be a bunch a traffic lights, and stop/go, when I come to a stop at that first light, the car is getting turned off. Then put into stealth mode. There better be a good explanation from them on this, because to me that decision is a fail.

since the battery is there for performance, they may be concerned that you could drain it down in stealth mode and then all of a sudden demand full power and not have much battery left. I realize that is true in stealth mode, but they may have envisioned stealth mode being used when the car is cold and not you're going to stomp the gas coming out of the neighborhood at 7 am. Just a guess.

[BuyPeaksSellDips]

since the battery is there for performance, they may be concerned that you could drain it down in stealth mode and then all of a sudden demand full power and not have much battery left. I realize that is true in stealth mode, but they may have envisioned stealth mode being used when the car is cold and not you're going to stomp the gas coming out of the neighborhood at 7 am. Just a guess.

When would you need 100% AWD full power after coming out of stealth mode. If the battery drains down to less than 20% or so, the engine automatically starts. Then you have the ICE powering you. When is the ICE not going to be enough, off the track? I get what you are thinking, but doesn't make any sense. I can't think of a single reason why there shouldn't be a reason to not to use stealth if you are in a situation where the auto stop/start feature is being used. Only going to be using it in traffic or city type streets. Not going to be using start/stop on the track.

[Ragtop 99]

^^^ I hear you and I agree that it should be available. My only reaction is that if a buyer is asking the question When is the ICE not going to be enough, off the track?, then there is no point in buying the e-ray; a regular stingray is the best fit from a price/performance standpoint for that person.

[kavo11]

^^^ I hear you and I agree that it should be available. My only reaction is that if a buyer is asking the question When is the ICE not going to be enough, off the track?, then there is no point in buying the e-ray; a regular stingray is the best fit from a price/performance standpoint for that person.

I think what he means is who is going to immediately rip the car to 100% max power right after leaving their neighborhood? Most owners let the engine warm up properly before really getting into it.

[Meldoon]

I think what he means is who is going to immediately rip the car to 100% max power right after leaving their neighborhood? Most owners let the engine warm up properly before really getting into it.

Exactly! So do you leave the neighborhood in stealth mode, then pull over to allow your engine to warm up before proceeding. I don’t think so!

[kavo11]

Exactly! So do you leave the neighborhood in stealth mode, then pull over to allow your engine to warm up before proceeding. I don’t think so!

Definitely wouldn't "pull over" to let the motor warm up. In fact, all manufacturers recommend against letting the car idle to warm up properly, but to drive it at 3k rpm max or so until you reach proper oil temp. I was just conveying that whether the battery really wears down if you max out stealth mode should be a moot point, since by the time you have ICE kick in and properly warm it up, the batteries will have recharged to max capacity for full power fun.

[Meldoon]

Definitely wouldn't "pull over" to let the motor warm up. In fact, all manufacturers recommend against letting the car idle to warm up properly, but to drive it at 3k rpm max or so until you reach proper oil temp. I was just conveying that whether the battery really wears down if you max out stealth mode should be a moot point, since by the time you have ICE kick in and properly warm it up, the batteries will have recharged to max capacity for full power fun.

Got it. I normally wait for the idle to settle down before driving, but I guess that is not necessary. Thanks for sharing.👍

[kavo11]

Got it. I normally wait for the idle to settle down before driving, but I guess that is not necessary. Thanks for sharing.👍

I don't think there's harm in that brief warmup Meldoon. I tend to do that too for the 30 seconds - 1 minute. But there's some people who let their car idle for 10-15 minutes trying to get oil temps to full operating temperature. That's what they specifically say not to do. Partly for environmental reasons and supposedly not good for wear and tear either due to subpar lubrication.

[Ragtop 99]

I think what he means is who is going to immediately rip the car to 100% max power right after leaving their neighborhood? Most owners let the engine warm up properly before really getting into it.

That is incorrect. We were talking about driving and then being able to switch into stealth mode.

I can guarantee you if I am in a city/around town situation, and I know for the next mile or two, there is going to be a bunch a traffic lights, and stop/go, when I come to a stop at that first light, the car is getting turned off. Then put into stealth mode. There better be a good explanation from them on this, because to me that decision is a fail.

So, the car would be warmed up in these circumstances. It's just you hit some lights. For example, maybe you're on a 4 lane divided road and then come to a small town with a bunch of stop signs. Coming out the other side of the town, maybe you want to floor it.

Once again, I don't disagree that it would be nice to do that.

[Mr DJ]

as far as mods for what my opinion is worth. The air filter mod if you feel you want it that should be fine. Same for the rear section of the exhaust.

headers and high flow cars would or should in my opinion be avoided. The excess heat could over time could cause heat degradation to wiring or hoses and again fwiw this car is quick enough.

high flow cars and headers would something that could over time affect other subsystem durability due to the unplanned effects of excess heat from those mods.

sounds nuts to us old school hot rodders yet packaged out back with different thermal characteristics than corvette engineers my suggestion again would be it’s better left as designed by the factory.

I'm Overly cautious for good reason. My answers to the headers and high flow cars though are only my opinion based off of what’s been stated about the stingray. With such insane acceleration capabilities my days of modding the car in those traditional ways are over. The performance is so staggering compared to previous generations I believe we have the option to just pony up the performance model we want and enjoy the warranty in full effect for these new (z06) ice or in this Eray (hybrid)

JB my Man...

I'll let you know any negative effects from the heat of the HF Cats and Headers 😉 I'll be installing them along with a titanium exhaust on my Electra Ray 😎

The Cats I'm going with come with heat shield blankets and I'll wrap the Headers with titanium heat wrap; I'll probably even wrap the exhaust but it's so pretty 🤗 And if I have to, I'll even wrap the wires; I fly RC planes and jets; I have tons of heat shield wrap for the servo wires, etc.

I don't track but I do drag race my C7 and the misses F-Type R; soon her new F-Pace SVR. With the wraps, I already know heat won't be an issue but I'll let you know still 😉

I'm with all you said above, as you know, you're my Man...and even though I too am an old-timer, since I do drag race, I gotta have the few ponies the below will give me, I mean give her, my Electra...

[BuyPeaksSellDips]

I don't think there's harm in that brief warmup Meldoon. I tend to do that too for the 30 seconds - 1 minute. But there's some people who let their car idle for 10-15 minutes trying to get oil temps to full operating temperature. That's what they specifically say not to do. Partly for environmental reasons and supposedly not good for wear and tear either due to subpar lubrication.

That is incorrect. We were talking about driving and then being able to switch into stealth mode.

So, the car would be warmed up in these circumstances. It's just you hit some lights. For example, maybe you're on a 4 lane divided road and then come to a small town with a bunch of stop signs. Coming out the other side of the town, maybe you want to floor it.

Once again, I don't disagree that it would be nice to do that.

Yes, kavo11 was correct in what I was trying to say. regardless if the engine is warm or not, and regardless of where I'm on the street (whether leaving the neighborhood, or driving through a bunch of traffic lights), If I'm in stealth mode, and I run down the battery to 25-30%, there would be very few situations, if any, where I want to gun it, and I NEED full battery and ICE at the same time. At that point ICE would be sufficient. Yes it would be better to have both, but it wouldn't be needed, like on a track. You would never use stealth on a track.

As far as letting the car warm up for 10+ minutes, or driving it right away around 3000RPM, there is arguments for both sides. Yes I heard its bad on the motor to auto start your car for 15 minutes with out driving it because of lubrication problem, but I really don't buy into that. The oil is pumping and everything. Some people say thats a myth and some don't. I don't care. If its freezing outside, I auto start my car/truck, and let it warm up, so its nice and toasty for me. (but not my vette because thats in the garage) Been doing it for 20+ years, and even had 204,000 miles on a SUV I did that with every time. Never had any engine problems.

[kavo11]

Yes, kavo11 was correct in what I was trying to say. regardless if the engine is warm or not, and regardless of where I'm on the street (whether leaving the neighborhood, or driving through a bunch of traffic lights), If I'm in stealth mode, and I run down the battery to 25-30%, there would be very few situations, if any, where I want to gun it, and I NEED full battery and ICE at the same time. At that point ICE would be sufficient. Yes it would be better to have both, but it wouldn't be needed, like on a track. You would never use stealth on a track.

As far as letting the car warm up for 10+ minutes, or driving it right away around 3000RPM, there is arguments for both sides. Yes I heard its bad on the motor to auto start your car for 15 minutes with out driving it because of lubrication problem, but I really don't buy into that. The oil is pumping and everything. Some people say thats a myth and some don't. I don't care. If its freezing outside, I auto start my car/truck, and let it warm up, so its nice and toasty for me. (but not my vette because thats in the garage) Been doing it for 20+ years, and even had 204,000 miles on a SUV I did that with every time. Never had any engine problems.

I thought I interpreted your comment properly.

And there's of course usually multiple schools of thought, no matter the topic. That said, regarding warm up, there's a few other reasons why its "maybe" better to not idle for 15 minutes first vs low rpm drive and go that I didn't mention in previous comment. One is that the DCT won't get any warm up until you actually start driving and shifting. Next, the engine doesn't build up heat as efficiently. Finally and what I consider the most important reason, oil dilution by fuel is accelerated because of the cold start rich mixture. I'm definitely not saying your car will develop issues as a result, but I can understand the science why those in team "don't idle for 15 mins" say that, especially in the sports car world where the motors are more high strung than the average car/suv. I definitely let my diesel truck idle and warm up during freezing winter days as well! Just not my sports cars.

[JB]

JB my Man...

I'll let you know any negative effects from the heat of the HF Cats and Headers 😉 I'll be installing them along with a titanium exhaust on my Electra Ray 😎

The Cats I'm going with come with heat shield blankets and I'll wrap the Headers with titanium heat wrap; I'll probably even wrap the exhaust but it's so pretty 🤗 And if I have to, I'll even wrap the wires; I fly RC planes and jets; I have tons of heat shield wrap for the servo wires, etc.

I don't track but I do drag race my C7 and the misses F-Type R; soon her new F-Pace SVR. With the wraps, I already know heat won't be an issue but I'll let you know still 😉

I'm with all you said above, as you know, you're my Man...and even though I too am an old-timer, since I do drag race, I gotta have the few ponies the below will give me, I mean give her, my Electra...

that sounds awesome and you know best. Im sure Im being overly cautious. Should be fun. Maybe youll get into the 9s!

If I remember correctly an extra 60 hp might just do the trick to go from 10.5 to 9.99 seconds

[Shepherd777]

I just thought of another NCM Bash question, the original topic of this thread.

I cannot recall if I have read anything or have seen it explained in a video. But does the E-Ray use the DCT for reverse gear still?

Suppose you wash your E-Ray in the driveway and after it's dry, you want to back into your garage?

Is reverse available either in Stealth or Shuttle mode?