Tweet
C6/C7 roof noises are very annoying. GM has revised latching mechanisms, come out with a couple of Tech service bulletins, improved strikers, added pin “gaskets,” and more to attempt to solve the myriad of problems C6 and C7 owners have had with these super irritating noises.
Note please: While this thread covers many different solutions, trying one, then another, then another has been the way that many have finally stopped the irritating roof noises. Sorry it is not more organized.
For me personally, below are those things which worked on our C7, then below that other suggestions which worked for others.
Enter Jeff@DaumPhotogeraphy and his two tools, i.e., applying Griot's rubber dressing on 100% of the roof-to-car structure's rubber mating surfaces, and a dielectic grease for the two, downward facing, front windshield-header aligning pins, the two rear pins, and the rear roof-attachment "catch hook." [Note, improved/ recommended, specific lubrication grease included below as # 1.] For the next 300 miles, not a peep, and we hit some great "road crevices." Then, the first slight single squeak, then another fifty miles later a creak, then the first rattle-clunk, all with ever-increasing regularity as hundreds and hundreds of more miles passed. You get the pattern. By the end of 750 miles, even the rubber dressing and the dielectic crease had met their match over the rough roads.
SOLUTION: When parked for the night yesterday, was coincidentally next door to a Home Depot, for many have used the simple, following fix and solved their rattle problems (though almost all of those successes are when this item is combined with rubber mating surface and pin treatments).The solution for us was adding two tiny o-rings!
You do not need to remove the top, just undo the two front latches, then the one rear, center latch, and with one person steadying the other side, life up the front end about five inches, slip one o-ring onto onto the roof’s downward-facing pin, then the other pin on the other side of the car. We drove the remaining 475 miles home and not even one tiny, tiny squeak, rattle, nor thump since. This package of 10 o-rings costs $2.69 at Home Depot in the plumbing aisle (and is, I am sure, available at many other places).
Note; The above measures worked not just for those 475 miles, but for our next three years and another 13,000 miles, e.g., no roof noises have never returned.
EDITS/UPDATES:
1) On September 30, 2015, GM released a service bulletin to fix with creaky roofs. Your dealer will be able to help on getting it fixed. Then in 2016, GM upgraded the latching mechanisms. Those options may work best of you, but the ones above worked perfectly for me and some of the ones below worked perfectly for others. Of course for others, it was a visit to the dealership (with our without these alternative methods) which solved their roof noise problem.
Roof Rattles/Creaks: Other Fixes
1) UPDATED/IMPROVED roof lubrication: "Lubricant of choice is the SUPERLUBE grease as it is teflon particle based, still a dialectric, and works better than regular dielectric or white lithium." (GM part # 12371287, Synthetic Lubricant, called Super Lube, available at Amazon)
2) The below updated/better information is thanks to "theCorvetteTechnician." Thank you Paul Koerner, GM Master Technician!
Re noise was coming from the right front part of the top. After checking every thing was tight, noticed a little scraping on the front right side vertical pin. Loosened up the pin, 17 mm , and adjusted it 180 degrees away; re-tightened.
3) Excellent alternative suggestions thanks to “phinman”:
Applied Zymol Seal Rubber Conditional to all the soft rubber contact points. As directed, applied generously, let sit for 30 minutes and then wiped off excess.
B. Applied Poorboys World Natural Look Dressing to all the hard plastic pieces where the roof and car met (namely the front pieces that run across the entire width of the window/roof).
4) Tighten rear hatch mechanism (Details thanks to “AFVETTE”.)
A. Remove top and set it on something to protect the paint.
B. Look at the rear latch assemble and you see a small "silver" colored HOLE in the face of the latch. That's actually a very small HEX nut.
C. Locate the appropriate size HEX Allen wrench.
D. Loosen the HEX nut, I discovered I had to back it almost all the way out, until it was flush with the surface of the latch face itself. I didn't want to go much further for fear of it falling out and loosing it.
E. Initially I needed a big pliers to turn the latch (you'll see it's threaded) and turn in one full turn (it's really the only turn that makes sense).
F. Reseat the HEX nut and reinstall the roof.
5) Applied about 4 layers of electrical tape to the rear pins and just cut the tape off of the tip (ball at the end). I then removed the set screw and turned the closure latch hook one full turn and reset the screw. Then, before I installed the roof, I applied some silicone spray to all of the rubber around the perimeter of the roof.
Best of luck finding a solution that returns your roof to total piece and quiet!
Note please: While this thread covers many different solutions, trying one, then another, then another has been the way that many have finally stopped the irritating roof noises. Sorry it is not more organized.
For me personally, below are those things which worked on our C7, then below that other suggestions which worked for others.
Enter Jeff@DaumPhotogeraphy and his two tools, i.e., applying Griot's rubber dressing on 100% of the roof-to-car structure's rubber mating surfaces, and a dielectic grease for the two, downward facing, front windshield-header aligning pins, the two rear pins, and the rear roof-attachment "catch hook." [Note, improved/ recommended, specific lubrication grease included below as # 1.] For the next 300 miles, not a peep, and we hit some great "road crevices." Then, the first slight single squeak, then another fifty miles later a creak, then the first rattle-clunk, all with ever-increasing regularity as hundreds and hundreds of more miles passed. You get the pattern. By the end of 750 miles, even the rubber dressing and the dielectic crease had met their match over the rough roads.
SOLUTION: When parked for the night yesterday, was coincidentally next door to a Home Depot, for many have used the simple, following fix and solved their rattle problems (though almost all of those successes are when this item is combined with rubber mating surface and pin treatments).The solution for us was adding two tiny o-rings!
You do not need to remove the top, just undo the two front latches, then the one rear, center latch, and with one person steadying the other side, life up the front end about five inches, slip one o-ring onto onto the roof’s downward-facing pin, then the other pin on the other side of the car. We drove the remaining 475 miles home and not even one tiny, tiny squeak, rattle, nor thump since. This package of 10 o-rings costs $2.69 at Home Depot in the plumbing aisle (and is, I am sure, available at many other places).
Note; The above measures worked not just for those 475 miles, but for our next three years and another 13,000 miles, e.g., no roof noises have never returned.
EDITS/UPDATES:
1) On September 30, 2015, GM released a service bulletin to fix with creaky roofs. Your dealer will be able to help on getting it fixed. Then in 2016, GM upgraded the latching mechanisms. Those options may work best of you, but the ones above worked perfectly for me and some of the ones below worked perfectly for others. Of course for others, it was a visit to the dealership (with our without these alternative methods) which solved their roof noise problem.
Roof Rattles/Creaks: Other Fixes
1) UPDATED/IMPROVED roof lubrication: "Lubricant of choice is the SUPERLUBE grease as it is teflon particle based, still a dialectric, and works better than regular dielectric or white lithium." (GM part # 12371287, Synthetic Lubricant, called Super Lube, available at Amazon)
2) The below updated/better information is thanks to "theCorvetteTechnician." Thank you Paul Koerner, GM Master Technician!
Re noise was coming from the right front part of the top. After checking every thing was tight, noticed a little scraping on the front right side vertical pin. Loosened up the pin, 17 mm , and adjusted it 180 degrees away; re-tightened.
3) Excellent alternative suggestions thanks to “phinman”:
Applied Zymol Seal Rubber Conditional to all the soft rubber contact points. As directed, applied generously, let sit for 30 minutes and then wiped off excess.
B. Applied Poorboys World Natural Look Dressing to all the hard plastic pieces where the roof and car met (namely the front pieces that run across the entire width of the window/roof).
4) Tighten rear hatch mechanism (Details thanks to “AFVETTE”.)
A. Remove top and set it on something to protect the paint.
B. Look at the rear latch assemble and you see a small "silver" colored HOLE in the face of the latch. That's actually a very small HEX nut.
C. Locate the appropriate size HEX Allen wrench.
D. Loosen the HEX nut, I discovered I had to back it almost all the way out, until it was flush with the surface of the latch face itself. I didn't want to go much further for fear of it falling out and loosing it.
E. Initially I needed a big pliers to turn the latch (you'll see it's threaded) and turn in one full turn (it's really the only turn that makes sense).
F. Reseat the HEX nut and reinstall the roof.
5) Applied about 4 layers of electrical tape to the rear pins and just cut the tape off of the tip (ball at the end). I then removed the set screw and turned the closure latch hook one full turn and reset the screw. Then, before I installed the roof, I applied some silicone spray to all of the rubber around the perimeter of the roof.
Best of luck finding a solution that returns your roof to total piece and quiet!
Comment