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Changing out the OEM battery in a C7- step by step guide

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  • Changing out the OEM battery in a C7- step by step guide

    Replacing the battery in our C7s:

    This is a relatively easy job, especially once you first know what needs to be done. It will take you about 30 or so minutes. The only tools you will need are a flat heat screw driver, 10 mm and 13 mm sockets, and some means of lifting out the original battery once disconnected. It does not have any built-in handles, so you will need either a cheap lifting strap that temporally attaches to the terminals, or the hardier sliding clamp or ‘ice block’ lifting claws. Our cars do not need to have auxiliary power supplied while you disconnect the battery. In most cases you will find that once you connect the new battery, your car alarm might go off, and you just need to press the unlock on the FOB. Then it might take a couple of cycles (on, off) for all electronics to return to their normal settings.

    There are several options available in addition to the OEM battery. I prefer to go with AGM batteries when I replace the originals in my cars. Sears carries a number of size 48 AGMs that will work, but the one I went with was from Batteries Plus, a X2 Power AGM part number SLI48AGMDP. It has a 5-year 100% replacement warranty, and 775 CCA. Here is what it looks like. [Note: if you click on an image here, it will enlarge to make viewing it easier]

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    And it is made in the USA just like our C7s

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    I suggest you protect your C7 from inadvertently scratching it by putting a protective cover over the trunk edge and right rear fender.

    The first thing you will want to do, is to use your hand and gently pry the right-side plastic wheel well interior cover away just enough that you can comfortably slip the floor carpeting out from under it. As you can see in this photo,

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    there are 3 attachment clips that release when you pull the cover. It is important to do this so that you don’t end up ripping the carpeting where it goes under the cover. Just ease the carpeting back enough so that you have clear access to the foam hatch on top of the battery, as you can see in this image. Then just place something heavy on the folded back carpeting to keep it out of your way.

    This is what you will see above the battery compartment, when you the carpeting back.

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    This is what you will see once you lift the foam cover:

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    In this image, you see the 5 sets of nuts that you will be loosening and or removing.

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    The first one is labeled 1 and is the negative ground cable. Note that it has a small additional wire attached to it (marked with a yellow arrow and caution triangle). You will loosen the 10-mm nut on the post clamp, which should allow you to slide the negative wire unit including the small wire, up off of the post. Once you do this carefully tuck the ground wire unit with the small wire out of the way.

    As you can see here, I tucked it between the plastic wheel housing cover and the carpeting.

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    Next you want to undo the positive heavy-duty line that goes up to the engine. This is number 2 in the picture. Tuck that away (down between the battery and rear wall will work). Next you will be removing the nut that secures the fuse block. That is number 3. Loosen it the same way you did the negative post clamp. Now to get the fuse block to release, refer to the two green arrows in the picture at the top and bottom edge of the fuse block. Insert you flat head screw driver down into one of the slots while gently lifting the fuse block up. You should feel the catch release. Do the same on the other one and then lift the fuse block up and place it to the left of the area, out of the way. Finally, use your 13mm socket and unscrew the battery hold-down brace. These nuts are labelled 4 in the picture.


    Now you should have everything disconnected from the original battery except the gas venting tube that is between the negative side and the outer wall (left of the arrow in this picture).

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    Just detach the tube from the elbow connector. Use your battery remover strap or clamp to lift it up and out. Be careful not to bump or hit your C7 body with it as you move it clear of your car.


    Next, remove the vent hole cap from the OEM battery side (it is on the positive post side) and the vent hole elbow connector (on the negative post side) and place them in your replacement battery in the same positions.

    Now you are ready to ease your new battery into the trunk floor. Remember the positive post goes to your left (with you standing facing the trunk) and the negative post on the right side.

    You now reverse the steps you did above. You reattach the gas vent tube to the elbow. Put the battery hold down brace back and tighten down the nuts. (I realized I forgot to put the bracket back until I had secured the positive line to the engine, so I had to take that back off to get the bracket in properly ). Next slip the fuse block assembly back over the positive terminal and push down at the top and bottom until you hear the clips ‘click.’ Then tighten the positive terminal connection (#3) down. Follow by connecting the positive line to the engine (#2), and finally the negative post assembly (with the small negative line) #1.

    You should now have everything connected (your trunk light will come on when you do, and if your C7 is set to auto lock, most probably the alarm will also go off. If it does, just unlock with you FOB unlock button).

    Once you are satisfied that all nuts are properly secured, replace the foam battery cover. Then gently slip the carpeting back under the plastic wheel well cover. Next, give the plastic cover a gentle thump with your hand at each of the 3 attachment clip areas. If you have them aligned, it should easily push home.
    When you first start you C7 you may notice a few things are not quite right- the HUD (if you have one) may revert to its default, the outside temperature display may be --, as well as the tire pressure readings may also be --. I drove RedHot for a nice freeway drive and then shut it down. When I restarted her, the outside temperature read correctly as did my tire pressure readings. I also reset HUD to my preferred display.

    I anticipate there are other ways to do this replacement. My intent in writing this up was to share with you the way I did. If it helps you when you decide to change yours, all the better.
    Enthusiastic owner of 'RedHot' Prod.Wk 7 Oct '13 Museum Del. 29 Oct '13
    Contributing Member of the National Corvette Museum
    Web site: https://www.daumphotography.com/
    blog: https://insight.daumphotography.com/

  • #2
    This a great thread Jeff. Thank you very much for creating it.
    Excited owners of a 2015 Z06. Lifetime, annual contributors, and 20 year members of NCM. A 2020 ME Corvette is coming next.

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    • #3
      Thanks John. The C7's battery location and change out is a bit different that norm, so if this helps someone do theirs more easily that is great.
      Enthusiastic owner of 'RedHot' Prod.Wk 7 Oct '13 Museum Del. 29 Oct '13
      Contributing Member of the National Corvette Museum
      Web site: https://www.daumphotography.com/
      blog: https://insight.daumphotography.com/

      Comment


      • #4
        Great instructions for a DIY battery change Jeff. I found it informative enough to realize I will have the dealer change out my battery rather than attempt to rely on my limited skills in this area. BTW, I still have the original battery in my 2014 C7!

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        • #5
          Boomer, thanks, and my guess is that you could change yours just fine. However, IMO your battery is clearly living on limited time by this point.
          Enthusiastic owner of 'RedHot' Prod.Wk 7 Oct '13 Museum Del. 29 Oct '13
          Contributing Member of the National Corvette Museum
          Web site: https://www.daumphotography.com/
          blog: https://insight.daumphotography.com/

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Jeff@DaumPhotography View Post
            Boomer, thanks, and my guess is that you could change yours just fine. However, IMO your battery is clearly living on limited time by this point.
            I feel its living on borrowed time. Just hope it doesn't head south at an inconvenient time. No indication of an issue yet and it checks out fine at the dealer when I have oil changes done. Maybe it will get me all the way to the C8!

            Comment


            • #7
              i just had mine changed earlier this since we are heading into winter. It was a precautionary change as I had had not one sign of its losing capacity. But as it is was turning four years old this month, and as I have no way of trickle charging it, just felt it was the safest thing for me to do.

              Re Jeff’s wonderful DIY, he specifically mentioned the caution to carefully lift up the outermost corner of the passenger side, plastic rear wheel liner and then pull out the carpet straight backward (not upward) as the only problem I have ever heard of by the battery change, were two folks who lifted the carpet upward at the one corner and tore in on that wheel linercorner, due to the bottom outer corner of the wheel liner being a sharp edge. But with being aware of this one potential issue, I have not heard since of anyone tearing their carpet.
              Excited owners of a 2015 Z06. Lifetime, annual contributors, and 20 year members of NCM. A 2020 ME Corvette is coming next.

              Comment


              • #8
                We use an orb 2 plug and small battery to keep voltage to the ECU durning main battery replacement. This keeps all of the preset values intact in the ecu. I hear the latest cars don’t need this trick , not sure about these .

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Racer86 View Post
                  We use an orb 2 plug and small battery to keep voltage to the ECU durning main battery replacement. This keeps all of the preset values intact in the ecu. I hear the latest cars don’t need this trick , not sure about these .
                  Correct, the C7 does not need to have any external power supply attached while replacing the main battery (if it is done in a 'normal' change out time frame). Some times when replacing the main battery, the alarm will go off once the new battery is installed. Also, some have had a display read out such as the tpms show blank when you first start the car, but all return to normal read outs once you drive a few miles.

                  Any time you replace a main battery, it is always good to take the car out for a drive on the expressway to ensure that you are getting the charge topped up, before parking in your garage and shutting down. I also like to attach a CTEK battery charger (like the 4.3) after installing a new battery to ensure a full charge.
                  Enthusiastic owner of 'RedHot' Prod.Wk 7 Oct '13 Museum Del. 29 Oct '13
                  Contributing Member of the National Corvette Museum
                  Web site: https://www.daumphotography.com/
                  blog: https://insight.daumphotography.com/

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    99% of the settings stay as they were before you remove the old battery. One however, does not, and I learned this just recently. I always leave the cruise control switch on. In fact, the last time I set it was so long ago, that when I tried to drive the car after replacing the battery, it took more than a minute to remember where it was (duh, right there), for interestingly when you replace the battery that switch, perhaps the only only (?), shuts off and needs to be manually re-set after the battery change.

                    Anyone know of any other very small things that need to be re-set after a battery change?

                    Jeff, I like and follow your suggestion to insure the new battery is fully charged, for who know how long it has sat on a shelf since manufacture and what is its charge level when you install it. I charged mine new one on my CTEK for a full day before I put it in.
                    Last edited by John; 10-29-2018, 11:02 AM.
                    Excited owners of a 2015 Z06. Lifetime, annual contributors, and 20 year members of NCM. A 2020 ME Corvette is coming next.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      GREAT THREAD!!!!! Thank You!! Just finished taking out the old battery. Only bad thing is on my 15 the bottom of the carpet a backing is all dried out and cracked up . Figure the venting leaked!!! The new one goes in tomorrow!! AGM is the way to go love these batteries been using them for years in all of my vehicles.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Sorry to hear your carpet backing issue Dave. Maybe your really hot summers, for my carpet is still soft and flexible.
                        Excited owners of a 2015 Z06. Lifetime, annual contributors, and 20 year members of NCM. A 2020 ME Corvette is coming next.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks Dave, appreciate the feedback and glad the write-up was helpful. Too bad about the bottom of your carpeting- fortunately, RedHot's is still in good shape at last check.
                          Enthusiastic owner of 'RedHot' Prod.Wk 7 Oct '13 Museum Del. 29 Oct '13
                          Contributing Member of the National Corvette Museum
                          Web site: https://www.daumphotography.com/
                          blog: https://insight.daumphotography.com/

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by John View Post
                            Sorry to hear your carpet backing issue Dave. Maybe your really hot summers, for my carpet is still soft and flexible.
                            Well the top is still like new just the backing. Mine lives in the garage for the most part say 96% of the summer. LOL being black on black it is not a summer commute vehicle here at least for me,

                            Comment

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